Three days in Athens-A heady mix of ancient and modern

Day 1

We had a great 4 nights 3 days stay at Athens and our experience was mixed; on one side you have the classical Athens, once the cradle of western civilisation and birthplace of democracy with impressive architecture, most of which are in ruins leaving it all to our imagination and on the other side the modern Athens – a  sprawling mega city teaming with people everywhere and nightmare traffic in narrow roads.

Day 1. Reached Acropolis entrance around 10 am. Not many visitors and the weather was pleasant. First stop was Theater of Dionysus and then walked up via the Odeon of Herodes Atticus theatre (much better preserved than Theater of Dionysus and reached the grand edifice The Parthenon grounds. The area around main Parthenon Temple is cordoned off due to renovation work so we had to just go around the temple amid ruins and renovation debris. You can also see the Lycabettus hill and the modern Athens city jungle from the Acropolis.  Spent little more than an hour and walked down to Roman Agora through winding lanes.

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Theater of Dionysus

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Passed the Athens University Museum and stopped at a cute little café Klepsydra(?) for some Baklawa and coffee. Reached Roman Agora and were put off by the aggressive hawkers (looked like Africans?) at the gate trying to sell some color threads. The Roman Agora was a disappointment as there was practically nothing except a few pillars.

TRG_7504aMoved on to Adrianou Street to reach Ancient Agora. We were hungry by now, partly due to the mixed aroma of food from the restaurants lining up the street.  Had a quick lunch at a corner restaurant with a local beer Mythos. Just realized that it was past 3 pm and the Ancient Agora was closed for the day.

Walked in to the by lanes visiting the several colourful shops selling souvenirs, knickknacks, clothes etc.  Bought ice cream at the Hans &Gretel themed confectionery shop and walked further to realize we were already into the thick of Monstiraki Flea Market! The market was teaming with people locals as wells tourists. Spent a couple of hours in the area and then took the metro from the Monastiraki Station and reached our accommodation close to Acropolis Museum station.

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Hans and Gretel!!!

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Delightful Dubrovnik! Part 2 of 3

Exploring the “Pearl of the Adriatic”, Days 3 and 4

Day 3: Walled city tour

Today was our most-important walled city tour; we joined the crowd at the historic Pile Gate bought the entrance ticket at the small booth near the Onofrio’s Fountain. The nearly two-kilometre long and winding medieval wall with several ups and downs offers panoramic view of the city and the sea- a photographer’s delight!

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You only have to stand at any vantage point, close your eyes and visualise yourself switching back in time; armed soldiers and canons guarding the city from marauders; weather-beaten sailors, hard-bargaining merchants and shrewd traders at the harbour; street pedlars and performers at the squares. Made a quick visit to the small but well-kept maritime museum within the fort with artefacts and remains from the days of yore!

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Done with the wall, we came back to Placa also known as Stradun, the main promenade of the walled city. Fully pedestrianised with shiny limestone, it is full of souvenir shops, gelato bars, cafes and restaurants with exception of the most prominent buildings such as the Church of St. Blaise, the Rector’s Palace (closed for renovation), the Sponza Palace and the Franciscan Monastery with its oldest pharmacy in Europe still operating! The best way to enjoy Stradun is to take a walk up and down the street visiting the attractions of your choice and when you get tired, sit in front of one of the cafes, get your drink and enjoy watching people of all colours and characters until the sun goes down.

Day4:Day tour to Vjetrnica Caves and Mostar

 

I have written two separate blogs on our trip to Vjetrnica Caves followed by our lunch at the historic hotel Stanica Ravno. Please click here to read….

https://footnotesbykaran.wordpress.com/2017/07/21/off-the-beaten-track/ (Vjetrnica Caves )

https://footnotesbykaran.wordpress.com/2017/07/23/off-the-beaten-track-2/ (hotel Stanica Ravno)

Day trip to Mostar

Post-lunch at Hotel Stanica Ravno , we continued on a 2 hour drive to Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Developed during the 15th and 16th centuries as an Ottoman frontier town, Mostar is strikingly different from the rest of Bosnia’s landscape with its old Turkish buildings spread over the old town. We walk along the narrow, historic old streets, climbed up the famous Old Bridge- Stari Most- the high point of Mostar town. There are numerous souvenir shops flanking the narrow lane to the bridge- actually spoiling the authenticity of the old town. If you have been to Turkey, you can’t help remembering the Grand Bazaar or the Araasta Bazaar of Istanbul. We spent about two hours at Mostar and then returned to Dubrovnik in time for our dinner.

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Delightful Dubrovnik! Part 1 of 3

Exploring the “Pearl of the Adriatic”, Days 1 and 2

Day 1. Arrived Dubrovnik by Croatia Airlines from Zagreb by 4 pm. Checkout and baggage collection took around 30 minutes. Our pre-arranged mini-van with a driver was waiting for us. The airport itself is perched on a mountain top and our excitement started as exit the airport and drove to the city on the winding road along the cliff … the views are stunning!

Sitting majestically at the strategic edge of the Adriatic overlooking the calm blue waters on one side and protected by lofty mountains on the other side, Dubrovnik is justifiably one of the world’s most magnificent walled cities and you will only understand when you have been there yourself. Now a Unesco world heritage site, the city is also Croatia’s upmarket tourist destination as it offers best of the both worlds- a historic old, walled town with this well preserved massive long and winding walls as well as a modern city with all the paraphernalia of entertainment and refined luxury.

Checked into our apartment in the city’s leafy neighbourhood Lapad, rested a while and got out for a stroll along the harbour waterfront – a great place to people-watch as well as the many tiny boats and fancy yachts of all sizes pass by.DSC_6195a

Spotted Croatia’s popular supermarket Konzum- (its everywhere!), bought some food stuff and a Dubrovnik day pass that allows you limitless travel on buses and trams and returned to retire for the day.

Day 2: We began the day with a sumptuous breakfast at Peppers Eatery – one of the waterfront cafes we noticed the previous evening.DSC_6201a

Took a leisurely walk to the old town along the leafy streets, marvelling at old stone buildings and classic Croatian villas. (You can also take bus no 4).DSC_6192a

Our first stop was the Museum of Modern Art housed in an amazingly beautiful villa converted in to nice museum. Spread over three floors, this excellent gallery showcases Croatian artists’ works of art, paintings and sculptures. Its lunch time and you are literally spoiled for choice with eateries in the old town area serving Croatian, Mediterranean, Italian and many more. And …don’t forget to grab a chilled Croatian Karlovačko beer.IMG-5389

Our next stop was Srd Hill. Took the Swiss-built cable car to reach the top and… the views were stunning! This IS the place from where you can get the best views of the walled city, the vast and mighty Adriatic dotted with islands such as Lokrum and Elaphiti.

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There is an upmarket restaurant Panorama at the top. Menu is pricy but its worth the quality and the views you get! It was a bit cloudy, windy and cold. As we spent the time taking in the scenery around with snacks and coffee at the restaurant, the sun was slowly going down and we were treated to a dramatic sunset!

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(If you are an early diner, Panorama restaurant is also a good choice as you have a double whammy of watching Dubrovnik glowing at night against the backdrop of moonlit ocean! Or choose a restaurant by the cliff (yes there are a few like the Buza Bar or Restaurant Levanant) or one of the several eateries along the beach for an al fresco dining.)