A day trip to Vjetrinica Caves in the outback of Bosnia and Herzegovina

During the planning of our Croatian vacation, we were looking at some day trips and something off the beaten track from Dubrovnik. In the middle of plenty of daytrips to Montenegro, Mostar, Budva, Korcula, etc we spotted Vjetrinica Caves.

Mr Bojo, the driver/owner of MiR tour company, was on dot to pick us up with his new Mercedes minivan which we had to ourselves as there were no other visitors! We drove along the Dalmation coast on the cliff-side enjoying the stunning views of the Adriatic.

Crossed the border post of Bosnia and Herzegovina and after a few minutes’ drive, we stopped at Ravno village (just a few houses, a church and a café alongside the road) for a cup of tea. Since Bojo was originally from Ravno area where the cave is located, he spoke the language and knew lots of people. After about 30 minutes further drive, we reached the Vjetrinica caves … in the middle of the vast outback of Popovo Polje karst plains, where the eye can see for miles.

With very few visitors like us, the place looked almost deserted except a small museum, 300 metres away from the caves. The museum had a display of photos and artefacts of the cave and its history including pictures of the elusive, endangered Proteus, a white Salamander with arms and legs that can live in the darkness for hundreds of years and go without food for 10 years.

The guide – a young Bosnian guy, who spoke fairly good English, handed out hard hats and torches. Since we were warned earlier that it will be colder inside, we put on our jackets and as we entered, a chilling and strong wind welcomed us- and that is where the name comes from- Vjetrinica means cold wind. The narrow cave entrance does not give you a perception of something fantastic waiting in front of you. After bend-walking a few meters, the cave loomed large in front of us with monstrous stalactite deposits hanging from above like icicles and stalagmite outcrops from the ground! Water was dripping from the roof at several spots and there were crystal clear pools along the passage sides, adding to the eerie feeling.

The scenery and experience was out of this world! The cave branched into several directions but the winding narrow passage ways are cleverly lit with partial lights to see the cave surroundings as we moved along. The guide told that though the cave is about seven kilometres long visitors are allowed only half or a maximum of one kilometre inside subject weather conditions, which is more than enough to understand the cave! Unfortunately we couldn’t see Proteus, the elusive creature.

Out we came, thanked the guide and now we were hungry. Bojo took us to Hotel Stanica Ravno – a 15 minute drive from the cave and…. what a delightful experience it was!